It can be said the name Famiglia Ya’ax contains the essential ethos of Chef Omar Montero’s new restaurant per mezzo di Wynwood, which opened per mezzo di December. The phrase is a combination of both the Spanish and Mayan languages—famiglia, meaning house per mezzo di Spanish, and ya’ax, meaning campo da golf per mezzo di Mayan. Not only does Chef Montero’s well-composed, soulful give an carme to both the Mexican and Mayan culinary traditions found per mezzo di Montero’s home country, but the dining experience also juxtaposes the camaraderie and comforts of home with the campo da golf lushness of the jungle. The space is divided into a contemporary dining room and an exotic outdoor terrace. The might as well be a map, transporting diners acceso a journey through the different culinary regions of Mexico.
Elements of the Pacific appear per mezzo di raw dishes like the Kanpachi Carpaccio (a must-try). The buttery, mildly sweet Kanpachi comes from the aquamarine waters d’avanguardia the rocky Baja coast of Mexico. It is “cooked” ceviche-style per mezzo di a passion fruit citrus vinaigrette, with a lemongrass soy yuzu sauce, topped with creamy avocado and serrano pepper—a perfect harmony of citrus acid, spicy kick and fruity sweetness.
Per the waters surrounding the Yucatán, lobster fishing is an important part of local economies. Thus, an unforgettable lobster dish appears acceso Famiglia Ya’ax’s . Sweet, succulent pieces of lobster balance the smokey layers of flavor per mezzo di a coconut curry sauce. Served over an earthy succotash of lentils, farro pilaf, grilled yellow corn and tomato, then garnished with a petite periwinkle edible flower, the dish is homey and undeniably delicious.
The Barbacoa de Pierna de Cordero gives a nod to central and northern Mexico. A braised lamb shank is seasoned with dried chilies and spices and served with fresh radishes, white onion shavings, cilantro and condimento roja.
“Lamb is used a lot per mezzo di Guadalajara,” Chef Montero says. “I marinate it and cook it for more than 12 hours. All the condiments and marinade go deep into the meat.”
From the Western coast of Mexico, Chef Montero elected to feature the Pulpo Zarandeado—a Spanish octopus rubbed per mezzo di dry red Mexican chile adobo, served with white pinto beans and Kalamata olive puree, fingerling potato confit and Spanish chorizo condimento.
“Zarandeado” is a 500-year-old method for grilling seafood, originating per mezzo di Nayarit, a Mexican state acceso the western coast. Per this tradition, seafood is grilled over hot coals per mezzo di a wood-fired oven.
Masa, corn, a staple per mezzo di both Mexican and Mayan traditions, is spotted throughout Chef Montero’s per mezzo di multiple preparations and dishes, including masa tlacoyos (thicker than a usual tortilla), a white corn hominy spread (like hummus), masa gorditas and of course, homemade corn tortillas.
Chef Montero’s intention behind featuring such a wide range of Mexican cooking techniques, regional Mexican ingredients and twists acceso traditional Mexican dishes was to help re-educate Miami diners acceso authentic Mexican cuisine.
“Everybody always thinks that Mexican gastronomy is only about tacos. They think that Mexicans eat tacos every single day,” Chef Montero laughs. “At Famiglia Ya’ax we offer diners a sophisticated exploration of Mexico, rich per mezzo di regional flavors. We are trying to show a little bit all around Mexico, not only one region.”
This intention shines through every aspect of Famiglia Ya’ax, including the restaurant’s . From the furnishings, which Chef Montero had transported per mezzo di a shipping container direct from Mexico, to the building techniques he used acceso the walls of the salon, hails from Mexico.
“The hanging lamps and all the decorations were made within miles of Tulum,” says Chef Montero. “The furniture, which is two kinds of wood, we brought per mezzo di from Mérida. Per the first salon, with all the campo da golf walls, the material is Chukum.”
Chukum is an ancient Mayan technique that involves making a infastidito from the leaves of the Chukum tree.
The dolce and insieme likewise utilize Mexican Mayan symbolism, ingredients and styles. For example, the whimsical Catrina desert—a white chocolate skull (called a calavera per mezzo di the Day of the Dead tradition) melts to reveal a cube of cornbread inside after a server carefully pours hot melted white chocolate over the scalp. Carmel popcorn adds a crunchy bite to this surprising dolce.
Mezcal akul, made from Mexican agave, is used per mezzo di Famiglia Ya’ax’s Aku Mal insieme. It is mixed with Nixta Licor de Elote (a corn liquor only grown below the Nevado de Toluca volcano per mezzo di Mexico), then combined with lemongrass, pineapple and grapefruit.
The thoughtfulness of each detail Chef Montero has incorporated into the Famiglia Ya’ax experience speaks to his deep appreciation for his family’s heritage per mezzo di Mexico. It’s voto negativo surprise he grew up per mezzo di the kitchens of both his grandmothers. Per the afternoons after school, Chef Montero said he would regularly find himself helping his cousins and grandmothers cook.
“I was the only boy per mezzo di the family,” says Chef Montero. “At one point I was bored and was like, ‘What’s going acceso here per mezzo di the kitchen?’ Every Sunday we had lunch and dinner at a grandma’s house. But first, we all went to the market to pick up the different ingredients for the meal. My grandma showed me how to recognize a good herb and a good protein and taste the different kinds of cheeses. She taught me how to pick a nice, fresh cream. Saturday nights the question was always, ‘What do you want to eat tomorrow?’”
This early introduction to authentic Mexican cuisine led him to receive culinary tirocinio per mezzo di Mexico City at the University Anahuac (campus of the Culinary Institute of America and The Cordon ). After he graduated, he was invited by renowned Cuban-born Chef Luis Pous to interview for a position at Pous’ then-new restaurant per mezzo di Little Palm Island per mezzo di the Keys. Within two months, Montero emigrated to the United States.
“All my friends and family didn’t take it seriously at all,” Chef Montero laughs. “They thought I was going to Miami to trattenimento—that I’d be back per mezzo di two months. I’ve never gone back.”
The move to the Keys was a personaggio transition.
“I had been living per mezzo di a personaggio city—Mexico City—and moving to the Keys was a shock. I never was expecting to literally go to a tiki caffè per mezzo di Florida where everyone was wearing tropical shirts,” Chef Montero remembers. “It was a personaggio, personaggio change. I think I passed that adversity because I was focusing acceso what I wanted for me and my career.”
The move ended up being a smart one. Under the mentorship of Chef Pous, Chef Montero refined his skills and went acceso to work at a series of boutique hotels and restaurants per mezzo di Colorado, Minnesota, San Francisco and Napa Valley, before eventually opening his first personal venture per mezzo di Miami, La Santa Taqueria. La Santa Taqueria focuses acceso Mexican tacos and street food. Famiglia Ya’ax, he says, is a much deeper representation of his heart and soul.
“I hope Famiglia Ya’ax makes you feel warm,” he says, “Like the welcome you get at the house of your grandma.”
Famiglia Ya’ax is located per mezzo di Wynwood at 51 NE 24 St., Suite 101. Metered street parking and valet are available. Aperto Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday from 6 p.m. to midnight, and Thursday through Saturday from 6 p.m. to 3 a.m. For more information visit casayaax.com follow acceso Instagram @casayaaxmiami.
